Tuesday, October 28, 2008

ni ju roku sai (twenty six years old)


This past Sunday I celebrated another birthday in Japan. Twenty six, from what I can tell so far, is one year past when people start saying that you're getting old. Twenty six is nice, it's kinda like just another year w/o the 'milestone' status that twenty five holds for some reason. But, anyway, I'd like to say thank you to everyone who wrote me a letter, sent me a long email update, shipped me package full of brownies, and made me feel like so many people were thinking of me. If only you all knew how much it means to come home to a letter waiting in the mailbox all the way out here in rural Japan...well, put simply, it makes me feel so much closer to the other side of the world. And, even if not at that exact moment, sometimes I really need that feeling. (I still haven't had a chance to respond to any emails or letters but I will as soon as I get the chance!)

But things are good these days. Without all (or most of) the ups and downs of last years' autumn, time is going by as I find myself busy most evenings and without a free weekend for a quite some time. I can feel myslef taking on the list of things that I want to do before I not longer a resident here. As of now, most of them involve camping, hiking, or bike trips.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

back in korea, october '08.

Every time I leave Japan I seem to gain a better understanding of the culture that I am living in. Going to Korea is interesting for me because for two nations that share some basic similarities, Korea and Japan are, in some ways, very, very different places.

On Friday afternoon I caught an early afternoon bus out of Naruto to Kansai Airport where I took the two hour flight into Seoul. Jon and I decided to meet at Yongsan Station, about an hour west of Incheon International Airport (where I flew in) and three hours North of Geumgang University, where he is studying Korean. We hit the streets right away and met up with some American friends who were waiting for us to arrive. I knew all of them from my trip to Korea last October and it was nice to feel welcomed right when I arrived. Jon lived in Seoul for a bit last winter so he knew what neighborhoods would be good to check out on the weekend. We ended up in Sinchon, or 'the Bloomfield of Seoul' as he calls it. Friday evening was a night full of convenience store mushroom wine, noraebang (Korean karaoke), makgeolli (Korean rice wine), late night gimbap (rice and vegetables rolled with nori seaweed), and finally giving into sleep at 6:30am.




On day number two we checked out the street life that makes Seoul such a cool city. The Namdaemun market district was amazing...there is no place in Japan where you can buy a kilogram bag of cashews for about $10 or find street vendors serving spicy food with attitudes to match. I kind of wish that Japanese cities had the bustle of a place like Seoul but urban areas here just hold a different kind of appeal. I think that for me at this particular time it was really good to see people display their emotions outwardly in public for a change, even though those emotions caused me to witness fistfights, arguing, and lots of spitting. Strangely, all of this was a relief from the isolation that I was feeling before I left home.





In the evening, we decided to head out early to a small town called Danyang where we planned on climbing Mt. Soebaeksan the next morning. We managed to see a bit of the Myeongdong shopping district before taking off on a three hour train ride south to the middle of the peninsula.




By far, my favorite part of my six days here was hiking Soebaeksan. It was around 15km (about 9 miles) round trip and the trail up the mountain was basically straight up without any switchbacks. We all had a good sleep that night.






Finally, we made it to Jon's new home at Geumgang University- a Buddhist school located at the foothills of Gyeoryong National Park. This is really out in the middle of nowhere. Before going to Jon's dorm, we didn't see any other westerners for days. There are a handful studying at the school, including Jeff- a 25 year old monk in training from Seattle who lives and works at a nearby temple.




(Below- the view from Jon's dorm room.)


After missing the last bus into town by seconds (literally), Jon and I took a taxi and then a train back to the city of Daejon where we slept for about one hour at a place called Hotel X and then at 6:00am I was on a three hour shuttle back to the airport. Getting back home is very routine at this point and I think that my patience while traveling has increased more than I had realized. This trip was an awesome six days of hanging out with one of my best friends while exploring a good amount of some really untouched parts of Korea. I was excited to come back to Japan mainly because I missed the food and I knew that I had only two days of work before the weekend. Landing back into Kansai once again made me realize how calm and orderly Japan is. In Korea, it's common to be pushed on the streets, have people jump ahead of you in line, see people sleeping at their jobs, etc. The big difference between last year's trip and this one is that I wasn't grossed out by this stuff this time. I find that I can more easily deal with cultural differences like this by (usually) just appreciating the uniqueness of it and taking things with a sense a humor. Actually, I would say that the latter is almost required for the life that I have been living for a little over a year.

So that's how I have come away from this recent experience. I'm really glad that I went to Korea again because I feel like I wasn't fully adjusted to living in Asia at the time that I went last year. Noticing how much better I deal with unknown (and often very strange) situations is a good measure of what I'm gaining with the more time I spend abroad. Day by day, you can see the relevance of things or places that once seemed overwhelming or uninteresting...whether that be a crowded street market or an empty Korean bus station at 5:30am.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

off to the mainland

It's Thursday evening and at the moment I am listening to an old Coalesce album while putting off the small amount of packing I have to do for my trip to Korea tomorrow afternoon. Though it was only four days of work, this was a long week for me. On Monday, I was unfortunate enough to discover that my school lunch contained ground up peanuts, which I am severely allergic to. Thankfully, I didn't eat too much before realizing that my throat was closing up and that my thoughts were becoming delusional as I started to sweat profusely. Anyone with a serious food allergy may be acquainted with the post-ingestion feeling of impending illness and, in my case, anaphylaxis. But, I know the drill. After teaching elementary kids about insects and school subjects I was fortunate enough to be able to go home and lay down as my histamines slowly returned to their normal state. Not the best way to start off my week.

On Tuesday and Wednesday, I attended one of my schools that has some serious discipline problems. The abridged version of the events that happened on these days is that a 7th grader got pushed down a stairwell on Tuesday and had to go to the hospital to receive six staples in his scalp. I won't go into details about what happened to him the next day when he came back to school, but I will say that he was not spared from the other students' bullying just because he had split his head open the day before.

BUT, today was a really good day and I taught some of my favorite kids at Naru-chu and that always improves my spirits. My Japanese lesson went well and I am always impressed by how fast two hours will go if you're in the mood for learning. I'm lucky to have a teacher who enjoys cheesy English-to-Japanese puns because I come up with that stuff all of the time. I was also impressed recently when Miori sensei's husband was daring enough to try my quinoa-vinegar-basil-nutritional yeast dish that i've made for countless people while living here:




They both seemed to like it a lot but we all still ate enough sashimi to fill us up either way.

So it's the end of a week that really tested my nerves but tomorrow at this time I will be in Seoul- a year and one week after I was in Korea last October. I'm happy to get out of Japan for a bit but I think I'll be glad to come back as well...so far that's always been the case.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

not in my own words...

September 25, 2008, 9:30 pm

by Judith Warner (taken from her opinion blog written for the New York Times)

I spent the past week in New York, helping my mother recover from surgery. It was a new role for me, taking care of my mom. It must, I think, have been somewhat destabilizing.

Perhaps when previously untapped wells of care-for-others are accessed, there’s no stopping the flow. Or perhaps it was just that, after five days locked in stare-downs with my mother’s cat, my eyes were playing tricks on me.

This may explain why, on Tuesday afternoon when I went to The Times Web site and saw the photo of Sarah Palin with Henry Kissinger, a funny thing happened. A wave of self-recognition and sympathy washed over me.

That’s right — self-recognition and sympathy. Rising up from a source deep in my subconscious. I saw a woman fully aware that she was out of her league, scared out of her wits, hanging on for dear life. I saw this in the sag of her back in her serious black suit, in the position of her hands, crossed modestly atop her knees, and in that “Mad Men”-era updo, ever unchanging, like a good luck charm.


Governor Palin met with former Secretary of State Henry A. Kissinger. (Photo: Stan Honda/ AFP-Getty Images)

Why, all of a sudden, was I experiencing this upsurge of concern and kinship? I knew, on the one hand, that this new vision of Palin had to be a mirage. Only a few hours earlier, I’d nodded along knowingly as a band of old-school liberals, gathered in my mother’s apartment to cheer her through her convalescence, tore the Alaska governor apart.

“He’s probably the first Jew she’s ever met,” one older gentleman, who himself had grown up as one of the only Jews in pre-World-War-II Lincoln, Neb., said of her meeting with Kissinger.

“No, there was Joe Lieberman,” his wife reminded him, putting me in a mind of the comedian Sara Benincasa’s utterly hilarious Palin parody, as a chorus of “despicable” and “disgusting” filled the room.

My friend Mary has long said that I have a tendency to develop a Stockholm-Syndrome-like empathy for the people I write about. But I don’t think that’s what was going on here.

I think — before I blinked — I had an actual flash of insight. I think I finally stumbled upon a major piece of the puzzle of how it is that so many Republican women can so passionately claim that Sarah Palin is someone they relate to. (It’s worth noting that polls have definitively shown that John McCain’s Palin gambit has not paid off in attracting disgruntled Democratic women voters.)

That the women who agree with Palin would also like her is not surprising. But the whole business of relating? That has remained mysterious for me. What, I’ve wondered, could the kinds of suburban moms I met, for example, at the McCain-Palin rally in Virginia, some of them former professionals with just two children apiece, one a former grad student making links between Palintology and the work of Homi Bhabha, have in common with a moose-killing Alaska frontierswoman with her five kids, five colleges and pastoral protection from witchcraft?

I think I’ve seen it now. In her own folded hands, her hopeful, yet sinking posture, her eager-to-please look. Sarah Palin is their — dare I say our? — inner Elle Woods.

I had thought of Elle Woods, the heroine of the 2001 and 2003 “Legally Blonde” and “Legally Blonde 2” films, a great deal during the week that Palin became McCain’s running mate and made her appearance at the Republican National Convention. The thoughts didn’t actually originate with Palin; my daughter Julia had recently discovered the soundtrack of “Legally Blonde: the Musical” and then the movies that inspired the Broadway show.

Re-watching the movies with Julia, I’d been surprised at how time, and motherhood, had tempered my affection for Elle Woods — a frilly, frothy blonde who charms her way into Harvard Law School and takes the stodgy intellectual elitists there by storm with her Anygirl decency and non-snooty (and not-so-credible) native intelligence.

I’d found the “Legally Blonde” movies fun the first time around. Viewing them in the company of an enraptured 11-year-old, who’d declared Elle her new “role model” after months of dreaming of growing up to be a neuroscientist in a long braid and Birkenstocks, was another story.

“You can’t,” I’d admonished Julia, “accomplish anything worthwhile in life just by being pretty and cute and clever. You have to do the work.”

“It’s just fun, Mom,” she protested.

Right.

You don’t have to be perennially pretty in pink — and ditsy and cutesy and kinda maybe stupid — to have an inner Elle Woods. Many women do. I think of Elle every time I dress up my insecurities in a nice suit. So many of us today — balancing work and family, treading water financially — feel as if we’re in over our heads, getting by on appearances while quaking inside in anticipation of utter failure. Chick lit — think of Bridget Jones, always fumbling, never quite who she should be — and in particular the newer subgenre of mom lit are filled with this kind of sentiment.

You don’t have to be female to suffer from Impostor Syndrome either — I learned the phrase only recently from a male friend, who puts a darned good face forward. But I think that women today — and perhaps in particular those who once thought they could not only do it all but do it perfectly, with virtuosity — are unique in the extent to which they bond over their sense of imposture.

I saw this feeling in Palin — in a flash, on that blue couch, catty-corner to Kissinger, as her eyes pleaded for clemency from the camera. I’ll bet you anything that her admirers — the ones whose hearts really and truly swell with a sense of kinship to her — see or sense it in her, too. They know she can’t possibly do it all — the kids, the special-needs baby, the big job, the big conversations with foreign leaders. And neither could they.

The “Legally Blonde” fairy tales spin around the idea that, because Elle believes in herself, she can do anything. Never mind the steps that she skips. Never mind the fact that — in the rarefied realms of Harvard Law and Washington policymaking — she isn’t the intellectual equal of her peers. Self-confidence conquers all! (“Of course she doesn’t have that,” said Laura Bush of Palin this week when asked if the vice presidential pick had sufficient foreign policy experience. “You know, that’s not been her role. But I think she is a very quick study.”)

Real life is different, of course, from Hollywood fantasy. Incompetence has consequences, political and personal. Glorifying or glamorizing the sense of just not being up to the tasks of life has consequences, too. It means that any woman who exudes competence will necessarily be excluded from the circle of sisterhood. We can’t afford any more of that.

Frankly, I’ve come to think, post-Kissinger, post-Katie-Couric, that Palin’s nomination isn’t just an insult to the women (and men) of America. It’s an act of cruelty toward her as well.

eh? nan de?

naruto-shi, tokushima-ken, Japan
teaching my native tongue on the world famous island of shikoku, japan.